I step out of the airport in Sarajevo and take a deep breath. The air carries a familiar blend—gasoline, wood-fire smoke, fog, and cigarettes. It’s incredible how smells can unlock memories and emotions. At that moment, I felt at home, as if I had been transported back to the Ferghana Valley in Central Asia.
It's been a year since my first trip to Sarajevo. So good to be back!
Sarajevo is a city unlike any other, layered with history and culture, its urban fabric telling the story of empires and transitions. It stretches long, east to west, unfolding like a timeline of its past. In the east, the old town wakes to the call to prayer, echoing from Ottoman-era minarets. Its picturesque bridges and narrow streets are lined with small shops and cafés, remnants of a world shaped by trade.
Walk westward, and the scenery shifts. Suddenly, the architecture is Austro-Hungarian—you could just as easily be in Vienna. Keep going, or hop on a tram or trolleybus for a few stops, and another transformation takes place. Towering socialist apartment blocks emerge, standing like lighthouses of nostalgia for the Yugoslav era, reminders of a different kind of a (recent) past.
Practicalities:
There are taxi drivers outside of the airport with a flat rate of 20 euros to the city. I am sure there are cheaper ways to travel, but this is the fastest.
Getting around Sarajevo is easy. I walked most of the time, but trams and trolleybuses are a convenient option. You can buy a ticket directly from the driver for 1.80 convertible marks (about 1 euro), and it remains valid for an hour.
If you had the luck of landing in Sarajevo, I recommend exchanging money rather than withdrawing from ATMs, as fees can range from 5 to 7 euros per transaction. Luckily, currency exchange offices are everywhere and offer fair rates—unlike in many EU countries. I still remember getting ripped off in Rome... but that’s a story for another blog post.
What to try:
1. Ćevapi
Small grilled minced meat sausages (usually beef or a mix of beef and lamb) served with somun (a soft, chewy flatbread) and chopped onions. Often paired with kajmak (super thick sour creme) and a side of ajvar (pepper-based condiment). You can choose the size of your portion. Typically 10-15 convertible marks or 5-8 euros.
2. Burek
A flaky, baked pastry filled with minced meat or with cheese (sirnica), spinach (zeljanica), or potatoes (krompiruša). Best enjoyed with a cup of yogurt usually sold in the same place.
3. Begova Čorba (Bey’s Soup)
A rich, slow-cooked soup made with chicken, okra, and vegetables, thickened with a roux. A dish with Ottoman roots, often served as a starter in traditional Bosnian meals.
4. Dolma & Sarma
Stuffed vegetables like peppers or grape leaves filled with minced meat and rice, simmered in a savoury sauce. A staple of Balkan and Ottoman cuisine.
5. Sudžuk & Suho Meso
Sudžuk is a spicy, dry-cured sausage, while suho meso is smoked beef, both commonly eaten as snacks or appetizers.
6. Kafa (Bosnian Coffee)
No meal is complete without Bosnian coffee—strong, unfiltered, and served in a džezva (copper pot) with a sugar cube and a piece of lokum (Turkish delight). Just sit down somewhere in the old town and let the world stand still for a moment as you sip on this magic. 4-5 KM or 2-2.5 euros per portion.
What to see:
Even a couple of days are enough to explore quite a bit. With a friend of mine, we started the morning by going up the Avaz tower in the city centre. You pay 2.5 KM and access the terrace at the top with panoramic views of the city. One floor below the observation terrace is a cafe with wifi and a toilet (practicalities, you know).
We then went to the History Museum of BiH. You can do it in about an hour. Entry is 7 KM (3.5 euro).
We hopped on a trolley bus and went to the airport area from where we walked to the Sarajevo Tunnel also known as the Tunnel of Salvation and the Tunnel of Hope. It was a crucial lifeline during the Siege of Sarajevo (1992–1996). Built in secret beneath the city's airport, the 800-meter-long tunnel connected the besieged city to Bosnian-held territory, allowing the transport of food, medicine, and weapons while enabling civilians to escape. Dug by hand under extreme conditions (workers were paid with cigarettes), it became a symbol of resistance and survival.
Also worth visiting: the train station and the legendary Holiday Hotel (former Holiday Inn).
The Hotel is one of the city's most iconic buildings, known for its striking yellow facade and its role during the Siege of Sarajevo. Built for the 1984 Winter Olympics, the hotel became a frontline witness to history as it housed foreign journalists covering the outbreak of the Bosnian War. Located on Sniper Alley, one of the most dangerous roads during the siege, the Holiday Inn became a symbol of both war and resilience. We were privileged to be able to stay in this hotel.
We finished the day with some delicious Ćevapi in the old town. So, here are some ideas:
1. Walk Through Baščaršija (Old Bazaar)
Sarajevo’s historic heart, where Ottoman-era architecture, cobblestone streets, and bustling shops create a unique atmosphere. Stop by for Bosnian coffee in a traditional kafana.
2. Visit the Latin Bridge & Assassination Site
The spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, triggering World War I. A small but important historical site.
3. Ride the Trebević Cable Car
For panoramic views of Sarajevo, take the cable car up Trebević Mountain. Once at the top, walk to the abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics bobsled track, now a graffiti-covered relic of the past.
4. Explore the War Tunnel (Tunnel of Hope)
A must-visit to understand Sarajevo’s history. This underground tunnel was a lifeline during the siege of the 1990s, helping transport food, supplies, and people in and out of the city.
Comments